So concludes my final day on the R/V Kilo Moana. Today was pretty low key, just had my 8 am to noon shift, hopped on the stationary bike one last time, cleaned my room and packed, and then had a fabulous BBQ on the back deck of the ship! Complete with three different kinds of sausage, steak, ribs (they were awesome), cole slaw, mac salad, baked beans, rolls, and brownies! With wonderful weather, and a great sunset, and some reggae jams playing, who could ask for more?
Although a lot of this trip has been disappointing, I will be sad to leave the ship tomorrow. I have met a lot of wonderful people with who have rich and interesting stories. It also makes me sad to know that I may never get a chance like this again. I do love being at sea.
Tomorrow we port into Guam, where we will probably take and $80 cab ride (ridiculously expensive, but its an island so they can jack up the price) to our hotel in Tuman Bay. There is a beautiful beach there calling my name, as well as a few brews at the bar ;) I don't know if I will feel adventurous or just be content laying on the beach (probably the latter), but I hope to meet up with some of the crew and the techs for a drink or two!
Western Pacific Cruise pt. II
Monday, November 8, 2010
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Sesame Street Gangster Victory
Tonight was the Quoits championship of the KM1021 cruise (the 21st cruise of 2010 on the Kilo Moana). The staging bay was packed with spectators and they broke out the big speakers to blare some music. It was the battle from the Galley- the Sesame Street Gangsters (the head chef Shawn and the second kitchen assistant Carston) vs. the Pinoy Posse (the first kitchen assistant Donny and the science lab tech Kuhio). I guess there was a lot of tension in the kitchen today! At dinner, a special cake inscribed in blue frosting read "Congratulations 2010 Quoits Champs, Shawn and Carston" complete with sprinkles (this was two hours before the match began). There was also a picture of Shawn and Carston with the cake holding up some #1 hand gestures posted in the mess. By the end of dinner, the cake had been defaced to read "Chumps." But, the cake was correct, the Sesame Street Gangsters came out on top. Pretty fun to watch.
Today, I didn't do much other than be a fatty. I had a great blueberry pancake for breakfast, grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch, and some fettucini for dinner. And I haven't even made it to the cake yet.
Really, otherwise I sat outside watching the water and knitted for about four hours. I was joined by Ernie, one of the OBS techs, for a couple of those hours and enjoyed some conversation.
Tomorrow is our last full day on the ship! Watch ends at 8 pm tomorrow night (just in time for this to be my last 8 pm to midnight shift!), and we are celebrating by having a BBQ on the upper deck of the ship (yes, they have a gas grill on board). As disappointing as this recovery has been, I will miss being out here. Going back to real life is going to be tough. Especially going back to northeast winter life. So I will try to enjoy my last day on the ocean tomorrow and prepare myself for two days of beer and beach time in Guam before returning to the frozen waste land that is the northeast.
Today, I didn't do much other than be a fatty. I had a great blueberry pancake for breakfast, grilled cheese and tomato soup for lunch, and some fettucini for dinner. And I haven't even made it to the cake yet.
Really, otherwise I sat outside watching the water and knitted for about four hours. I was joined by Ernie, one of the OBS techs, for a couple of those hours and enjoyed some conversation.
Tomorrow is our last full day on the ship! Watch ends at 8 pm tomorrow night (just in time for this to be my last 8 pm to midnight shift!), and we are celebrating by having a BBQ on the upper deck of the ship (yes, they have a gas grill on board). As disappointing as this recovery has been, I will miss being out here. Going back to real life is going to be tough. Especially going back to northeast winter life. So I will try to enjoy my last day on the ocean tomorrow and prepare myself for two days of beer and beach time in Guam before returning to the frozen waste land that is the northeast.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Guam-ward bound
We are officially on our way to Guam now! We are still surveying on the way, so we have to keep up our watch shifts but it is pretty low key at this point. So, there is not much to report. I am just trying to soak in the experience for the last couple days, along with the tropical weather, because Lord knows I won't be able to wear shorts for a very long time upon my return to Providence.
The semifinals of the Quiots tournament occurred tonight! There was a lot of excitement, a big crowd watching and music going. The big championship is tomorrow night!
McCall has also taught me how to purl. I am trying to come up with a good way to use the rest of my yarn.
Breakfast this morning was pineapple waffles! Yum! Dinner was delicious grilled mahi, italian sausage with peppers, onions, and mushrooms, sautéed squash, and garlic herbed rice. I am really going to miss having such wonderful food prepared for me daily!
The semifinals of the Quiots tournament occurred tonight! There was a lot of excitement, a big crowd watching and music going. The big championship is tomorrow night!
McCall has also taught me how to purl. I am trying to come up with a good way to use the rest of my yarn.
Breakfast this morning was pineapple waffles! Yum! Dinner was delicious grilled mahi, italian sausage with peppers, onions, and mushrooms, sautéed squash, and garlic herbed rice. I am really going to miss having such wonderful food prepared for me daily!
Friday, November 5, 2010
Sobering
As if losing 4 instruments to the ocean wasn't enough, my advisor and I started looking at the data, and it is not good news. Three of the Scripps instruments and one of the Lamont ones did not provide any useful data at all. So, that leaves us with 8 functioning seismometers. Four of these 8 did not record for the whole time they were deployed so what it boils down to is this:
The colored circles show the seismometers that actually worked. Those that have a portion of black indicate how long they were working (black shows the proportion of time they weren't working). If you look closely, there are small black triangles. Those are the stations we should have had but don't due to loss at sea or crappy data.
So, in reality, this is less than 50% data return, the worst Don has ever had (which is just perfect for me and my thesis!). We won't be able to do a lot of what we set out to do. But, there are glimmers of hope. In going through the data, we have found some interesting features that may unfold into a unique story that we weren't planning on telling. So, we might have some unexpected blessings. I guess you have to run with what you've got.
As far as what we were planning on doing with the data, I'll try to give you a quick run down of the problems we were trying to address. First, you need to know a little bit about earth's structure. If you were to take a slice of the earth, you would see that it is made up of layers. The brittle and thin outermost layer is the crust. Beneath the crust is the lithosphere, which is also rigid but thicker than the crust. The crust and the lithosphere make up the plates that move around the surface of the earth. Beneath the lithosphere is a region called the asthenosphere. The asthenosphere is more ductile, and accommodates the motion of the rigid plates above. Think of it like the consistency of silly putty, it's not liquid but it deforms. If you were to keep traveling down to the center of the earth, you would go through the mantle, the liquid outer core, and into the solid inner core. We are mostly interested in learning about the lithosphere and the asthenosphere associated with old oceanic plates.
Oceanic plates are made at mid ocean ridges (sometimes referred to as spreading centers). Here, melts from the mantle rise up to the crest of the mid ocean ridge, as the two plates on either side of the mid ocean ridge pull away from the ridge crest, and the melts erupt at the surface, cool and make new crust. The region of the mantle that the melt came from is now cold and chemically depleted (since it lost the melt), this is the lithosphere. With time, this newly formed crust and lithosphere move away from the spreading center and continue to cool off. With more and more cooling over time, the lithosphere thickens (as you are adding more cold material).
So, this is what we know. A big question that remains in the earth sciences is whether the oceanic lithosphere continues to thicken through all time, or does it reach some steady state thickness around 80 million years, as some data suggest. We wanted to try to answer this question by studying really old oceanic lithosphere. In our study area, the crust is about 150 million years old. So, although we would not be able to say how the lithosphere changes through time, we would be able to provide a great snap shot of what the upper earth structure looks like in this old oceanic region.
We were going to try to answer this question in a couple of different ways. We can use seismic waves that travel through the earth to basically get a cat scan of the region. By measuring differences in travel times (or phases and amplitudes of seismic waves) from earthquakes coming from all around the world, we can determine what the seismic velocity is in the material that lies under the seismometers. Since the lithosphere is cold, it would have a faster seismic velocity than the underlying asthenosphere. This is one way we could look at the thickness of the lithosphere.
Another unique way we were going to look at it involves seismic anisotropy. Sorry if this is getting too complicated and convoluted. The mineral olivine, that makes up most of the upper earth structure (aside from the crust) is highly anisotropic. So, seismic waves travel at different speeds on it's different crystallographic axes. When groups of olivine crystals are subject to stress (such as at the mid ocean ridge crest where the plates are pulling apart), they tend to all align in a certain way. Here, all of the axes along which seismic waves travel the fastest align in the direction of stress.
This is also where the choice of the location of our experiment comes in. The crust and lithosphere that underly the two groups seismometers were formed by two different mid ocean ridges. There are faint red lines on the first graphic with the stations plotted that show the orientation of the mid ocean ridge that formed those two regions. If you can't see them, these lines are nearly perpendicular to each other. We can measure seismic anisotropy with our seismometers, which tells us about the direction of the stress field that is responsible for the anisotropy. What we would expect to see is a difference in seismic anisotropy beneath the two groups of seismometers, reflecting the fossil spreading direction of the mid ocean ridge that formed these two different regions. But, as we go deeper into the asthenosphere, we expect the anisotropy to tell us something different. Here, the stress field is dictated by the current plate motion, as the crust/lithosphere plate that rides above the asthenosphere kind of shears it in the direction that it is moving. So, although these two different regions should have different directions of seismic anisotropy shallow in the lithosphere, in the asthenosphere it should be in the same direction since they are both a part of the Pacific plate that is moving coherently as one to the north west. This is the other way we would try to answer the question about lithospheric thickness, by looking at what depth the direction of seismic anisotropy changes.
Sorry for all the science. Hopefully most of you can understand this, but if not leave me a comment or something and I can try to better explain it. Needless to say, I was very excited about this project, and if the data set had come out more favorably, we would have been able to answer these questions in a lot of different ways using different techniques. Now we are going to be very very limited. But, like I said, hopefully we will stumble upon some unexpected scientific breakthroughs. You never know.
On the upside, food today was GREAT. After that near sob session of looking at the data with my advisor, we went down for lunch and much to my delight it was Mexican! Some delicious beef tamales, Kalua pork taquitos (they called them enchiladas, but they were really taquitos), jalepeno poppers, black beans and rice. Just what the doctor ordered. And of course, Aloha Friday = pizza night! I had Hawaiian and a slice of artichoke feta. I am sure going to miss Aloha Friday.
Hopefully I can get my spirits back up to enjoy the last few days at sea!
Thursday, November 4, 2010
OBS #5, the Heartbreaker
We returned to the Lamont OBS that we weren't able to communicate with the first time (the one I was talking about in the 'Stake Out' post, it is the northern most red circle in the left group of OBSes). Here, we spent another 12 hours pulling out all the tricks we had. We circled it with the portable transponder, sent down the Rescue Beacon to depths ranging from 1000 to 5000 m to communciate with it, all the while still sending communication over our regular transducer. When I came on shift, we actually got quite a few pings back, just enough to get my hopes up again. I am sure we were communicating with the instrument. But just because we established spotty communication doesn't mean that it wouldn't have had the same anchor release problem as the previous ones. So, we stuck around for another 6 hours or so after that, just in case one of our burn commands got through and it was able to burn off the anchors, to give it enough time to potentially get to the surface. But, after I got off shift, they got very few pings, losing communication. The stupid OBS was teasing me, giving me a glimmer of hope then breaking my heart again.
I had an exciting afternoon nonetheless. McCall and I got a tour of the innards of the ship, which is compartmentalized into maybe 5 or 6 different rooms on each side. One of the crew members took us downstairs into each of these rooms (that are not connected so it's a lot of going up and down and around) to see the generators, engines, water purification systems, propellor turners, etc. It involved climbing a lot of ladders into tight spaces, and at some points we were 40 ft below the surface! We could hear the waves crashing, kind of scary but also very cool. We also found where they keep the stocks of candy. There is a whole lot of food on this ship! Enough to feed everyone for 5 weeks I believe. There is also a whole lot of fuel, I think 130,000 gallons. That's a lot of liquid money. No wonder it costs $33,000 a day to be out here.
Speaking of food, dinner was excellent, again. There was chicken fried steak, but I opted for the stuffed green pepper. It was stuffed with rice and ground beef, and topped with tomato sauce and cheese. Mmmm so tasty! There was also mashed potatoes and steamed veggies.
Sadly, the Salty Stitchers lost their first game in the single elimination Quoits tournament. McCall was pulling us through and got a ringer, but unfortunately we lost 21-12. Oh well, we are thinking of starting a losers bracket to play some more.
Right now we are just surveying for the next few days before we have to start our four day transit to Guam! And I'm telling you, right now, a beer sounds so so good. I know what I'll be doing once we get into port.
I had an exciting afternoon nonetheless. McCall and I got a tour of the innards of the ship, which is compartmentalized into maybe 5 or 6 different rooms on each side. One of the crew members took us downstairs into each of these rooms (that are not connected so it's a lot of going up and down and around) to see the generators, engines, water purification systems, propellor turners, etc. It involved climbing a lot of ladders into tight spaces, and at some points we were 40 ft below the surface! We could hear the waves crashing, kind of scary but also very cool. We also found where they keep the stocks of candy. There is a whole lot of food on this ship! Enough to feed everyone for 5 weeks I believe. There is also a whole lot of fuel, I think 130,000 gallons. That's a lot of liquid money. No wonder it costs $33,000 a day to be out here.
Speaking of food, dinner was excellent, again. There was chicken fried steak, but I opted for the stuffed green pepper. It was stuffed with rice and ground beef, and topped with tomato sauce and cheese. Mmmm so tasty! There was also mashed potatoes and steamed veggies.
Sadly, the Salty Stitchers lost their first game in the single elimination Quoits tournament. McCall was pulling us through and got a ringer, but unfortunately we lost 21-12. Oh well, we are thinking of starting a losers bracket to play some more.
Right now we are just surveying for the next few days before we have to start our four day transit to Guam! And I'm telling you, right now, a beer sounds so so good. I know what I'll be doing once we get into port.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
Lazy surveying
Well, after more than 12 hours of trying to communicate with that Lamont OBS, we gave up. We tried just about everything, but we never really heard from it. So, another $70,000 gift to the sea floor. At this point, we won't even reach a 2/3 data return. I was told that 2/3 is typical, but I guess I didn't really believe it and I just had high hopes. But we went ahead and undershot that statistic with this experiment! It's rough when it's so out of your control.
Right now we are taking a break from attempted recovery (we have attempted with all 16 now though) and are doing a 20 hour survey. We are basically just cruising around recording bathymetry, gravity anomalies, and magnetic anomalies on the sea floor. It's a nice break from the anxiety of recovery. I can veg out during my shift (aka write this blog, check email, watch a movie), rather than be down in the labs trying to listen for pings. But, at 3:30 am we should be back at the previous Lamont site where we weren't able to establish communication to give it one more shot. I have little faith, but we should do everything we can.
Otherwise, there's not much more to report. Other than food! This morning I had a fabulous macadamia nut pancake (pretty sure it was whole wheat too), lunch I skipped but it was sloppy joes and cajun catfish. Dinner was quite fancy, bacon wrapped chicken breasts, cheese ravioli with tomato caper sauce (they really seem to like their capers on this ship), scalloped dill potatoes, and zuchinni. It was one of the other grad student's birthday yesterday, so the kitchen made him a cake and we sang as he came downstairs tonight. I'm holding out for ice cream later, but I heard the frosting was really good. There were fresh baked chocolate chip cookies sitting out today too, they are like hockey pucks, they look so good.
I spent the rest of the day watching movies in the lounge and not doing much of anything. Don has the data from all the Scripps instruments, and in the correct format now, so we should be able to start looking at data quality tomorrow! Hopefully this won't also be a disappointment.
Right now we are taking a break from attempted recovery (we have attempted with all 16 now though) and are doing a 20 hour survey. We are basically just cruising around recording bathymetry, gravity anomalies, and magnetic anomalies on the sea floor. It's a nice break from the anxiety of recovery. I can veg out during my shift (aka write this blog, check email, watch a movie), rather than be down in the labs trying to listen for pings. But, at 3:30 am we should be back at the previous Lamont site where we weren't able to establish communication to give it one more shot. I have little faith, but we should do everything we can.
Otherwise, there's not much more to report. Other than food! This morning I had a fabulous macadamia nut pancake (pretty sure it was whole wheat too), lunch I skipped but it was sloppy joes and cajun catfish. Dinner was quite fancy, bacon wrapped chicken breasts, cheese ravioli with tomato caper sauce (they really seem to like their capers on this ship), scalloped dill potatoes, and zuchinni. It was one of the other grad student's birthday yesterday, so the kitchen made him a cake and we sang as he came downstairs tonight. I'm holding out for ice cream later, but I heard the frosting was really good. There were fresh baked chocolate chip cookies sitting out today too, they are like hockey pucks, they look so good.
I spent the rest of the day watching movies in the lounge and not doing much of anything. Don has the data from all the Scripps instruments, and in the correct format now, so we should be able to start looking at data quality tomorrow! Hopefully this won't also be a disappointment.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Not promising, 12-4
I may officially be ready to be done with this cruise. All these frustrations trying to recover these Lamont instruments is really getting me down and I think I am ready to go home and return to normalcy. We picked up the last two Scripps instruments today, but one of them has a 22 second clock delay, which means its going to be a pain correcting for that in the data. If I had known that recovery cruises would end up being this depressing, maybe I wouldn't have come!
As for the last Lamont instrument, we've been trying to communicate with it for about three hours now with no success. Just like the previous one. Don seems to think that perhaps the glass spheres imploded and damaged the transponder. This would be why we aren't able to establish communication at all. We've tried lots of different things, and now we are towing the portable transducer around trying to get a ping. I am about to go on shift and the thought of sitting downstairs in their lab for four hours, hopelessly listening to nothingness is giving me a headache. I really don't want to do this. We have about two-three days left before we need to start our four day transit back to Guam, so this could go on for a while.
Luckily tonight was spaghetti and meatballs, a nice big bowl of comfort for me. I topped it off with some butter pecan ice cream, but I don't know what will fill the void of not getting these instruments back.
As far as I can tell, I bet this is going to be our final outcome:
As for the last Lamont instrument, we've been trying to communicate with it for about three hours now with no success. Just like the previous one. Don seems to think that perhaps the glass spheres imploded and damaged the transponder. This would be why we aren't able to establish communication at all. We've tried lots of different things, and now we are towing the portable transducer around trying to get a ping. I am about to go on shift and the thought of sitting downstairs in their lab for four hours, hopelessly listening to nothingness is giving me a headache. I really don't want to do this. We have about two-three days left before we need to start our four day transit back to Guam, so this could go on for a while.
Luckily tonight was spaghetti and meatballs, a nice big bowl of comfort for me. I topped it off with some butter pecan ice cream, but I don't know what will fill the void of not getting these instruments back.
As far as I can tell, I bet this is going to be our final outcome:
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